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Stabroek News

Dining with the masters
published: Thursday | May 17, 2007


Bollugar Special Cuvee NV - Smooth on the palate with no overbearing influences. Champagne to be drunk for hours!

Emma Sharp, Contributor

Last Friday, Peter Kellond, deputy managing director of Half Moon, hosted an exclusive dinner at Sugar Mill Restaurant. Masters of food and wine were brought in - Chef de Cuisine Ainsley Lambie, Master of Wine Adrian Garforth, and Paul and Cynthia Hanworth from 1876 Wines.

As I take you through the menu, please read carefully so that you might appreciate every mouthful of food and sip of wine enjoyed.


Coconut Infused Crawfish Cake

Ventisquero ChardonnayGran Reserva,Chile, 2005

This is served with naseberry and onion marmelade, balsamic syrup and tomato basil chutney.

Crawfish flakes in a cake, subtly flavoured with coconut, and topped with tomato chutney. The savoury marmalade upon which it sat was an unusual treat, and the balsamic syrup was beautifully used to decorate the plate. Chile is known for growing grapes to produce easy everyday drinking wines. The Gran Reserva is made from the finest Chardonnay grapes, giving the wines time to mature in oak barrels, which demonstrates hints of tropical fruit and vanilla. Ideal with delicate seafood.

Domaine de la Pigeade Muscatde Beaumes de Venise, France, 2003


Chocolate Caramel Moussewith Vanilla Bean Sauce

What a finale this rich chocolate mousse was, with moist chocolate sponge, raisins and toffee in the centre. It was so yummy that it didn't need all the fuss of garnishes it came with, nor did I have more than a sip of wine. I actually prefer sweet wines with blue cheese, but that's a personal thing and this was truly an excellent Muscat. You might think I'd be too full to finish the entire dessert, but there was not a chance in hell that I'd be giving up anything but an empty plate!

All in all this was a gastronomic experience any chef or wine buff ought to be proud of. I was honoured to be part of this masterly evening.

Brampton Cabernet,Stellenbosch South Africa, 2004


Island Spice Rubbed Angus Beef Tenderloin with BBQ Shrimp

This is served with rum, mango-glazed cranberry and ginger, Jasmine rice and goat cheese croquette.

Congratulations on sending out fifty rare and tender steaks! I was impressed, and the jerk spice coating the outside was something to relish. The Cabernet grape is thick skinned and robust, and its tannins are softened by red meat and spicy foods. The shrimps should have been barbequed for less time, and the entire dish could have done without the mango glaze and the croquette. Not that they weren't both lip-smacking and inventive, but there was just too much happening on one plate. I was battling to appreciate it all at once.


Fire Grilled Peachand Tomato Salad

Walch, 'Marat' PinotGrigi Adigo, DOC Italy, 2005

This is herb-marinated peach lightly grilled and served on a bed of lettuce with creamy papaya vinaigrette

My only criticism was the use of tinned peaches (perhaps fresh papaya next time). It was fortunate that there were only two slices. The lettuce mixed in vinaigrette was flawless - similar to scrumptious Caesar salad without anchovies. Pinot Grigio doesn't taste of much so serving it with this course was a good idea. The hig from which it comes is very cool, which helps to produce lovely grapes with traces of peach (I see what chef was doing) and apricot.

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