Paul H. Williams, Sunday Gleaner Writer

Middle Pedro Cay looks enchanting from the Jamaica Defence Force's HMJS Surrey.

SATURDAY MORNING. March 15. About 4: 30. The Jamaica Defence Force (JDF) Coast Guard's HMJS Surrey, captained by Lieutenant Commander Antonette Wemyss-Gorman, left the dock at Port Royal. Destination Pedro Cays, about 80 miles south-east of Kingston.

In addition to the captain and crew, there were JDF privates in training onboard. But, also aboard were three 'imposters', Sunday Gleaner writers Gareth Manning, Daraine Luton and yours truly. And the word: 'seafaring', took on a whole new meaning, for at least one of us. It became 'sea fearing'.

Before departing, Lieutenant Prescott who welcomed us onboard, briefed us on the trip while giving a short tour of the immaculately kept vessel. We were given life jackets and sleeping bags. The messroom was to be our lounge. In the pitch-black pre-dawn, the boat departs. And with nothing to do, we crept into the sleeping bags on the floor of the rocking boat.

At morning light, we went on deck. There was nothing around but tumultuous waves. Back inside the messroom, where breakfast was served, I had none. Gareth alone gobbled six dumplings. Daraine swallowed three of them whole. He called them police buttons.

All this while, we had been struggling with nausea. Then, suddenly, Daraine sprang from his seat and sprinted to the head. The rocking movement of the boat had turned his gut inside out.

We spent the rest of the journey napping, chatting and milling around. Then, the boat became still. We were now in the waters of Middle Pedro Cay. With life jackets on, we descended into one of the rafts that surrounded the boat. It sped to shore.

Untouched by man

Most of the houses on Middle Cay are made of zinc sheets, giving the settlement a shantytown look. - Photos by Paul Williams

Upon arriving on the sands of Middle Cay, one could see that when it was untouched by man, it was nature's paradise. But now, it festers. The residents call it 'Pleasure Cay'. There are pleasures of the flesh - fish and human. I call it 'Paradise Lost', where the living is easy. Fishes are certainly jumping, and cottony clouds are high in the sky.

We roamed the cay until minutes after three, and I saw things that I would really want to see again, like masked booby birds nesting in the grass. But there are things unspeakable that I never, NEVER want to behold again - as if the boat ride weren't stomach turning enough. So, when the HMJS Surrey returned for us my heart sang with glee.

The raft that took us back to the Surrey sailed and jumped over rough waves, tilting precariously sometimes to one side or the other. When it reached the Surrey, the mooring it was quite a task. That done, Daraine Luton, in youthful exuberance, climbed the ladder with the agility of a seasoned sailor.

Then it was my turn. And as much as I shuddered at the thought of living forever on Paradise Lost, I wanted to return. The narrow raft bounced ferociously beside the Surrey. I stood barefooted and held on to the top of the wet rope ladder. Raft bounced. I put my left foot on to the first rung. Raft bounced. I tried to put my right foot on the second rung, but cannot find it. Raft bounced.

Delicious shark food

I was now dangling, all 185 pounds of 'muscles', and holding on to the ship for dear life. The raft behind me bounced. I could not get back in. I told myself that I was not going to be sinfully delicious shark food. My biceps hurt, but I am not letting go. Some crew members held me by my jacket collar and pulled me. I became confident. I found the rung, and another, and another. With the crews' assistance, I hauled myself on to the deck. The ordeal was over. I have conquered the rough seas. And Daraine Luton was in stitches.

Gareth Manning had a little difficulty going up, but it was without drama. How boring!

The journey back started at about 5:00, and was bumpier than the morning ride. It was like going up a hill. We slept through most of it, watching the thrills and spills of Boys' and Girls' Champs in between. Minutes past 10, we were back in Port Royal. After much chit-chat with the captain and crew, we bade them farewell.

On behalf of The Gleaner Company, we say thanks to Lt Cdr Wemyss-Gorman and her crew for accommodating us. It was indeed an unforgettable and wonderful experience.

paul.williams@gleanerjm.com