Getting a massage on the hot, black rocks of Bath.

There are two ways to get the proverbial 'wash off' in Bath. One is to walk through the doors of the hostel where tub-like baths have been prepared with the hot mineral water for your relaxation.

The other is to take the beaten track - on the other side of the river - and to climb the back-bending path to the river and spring where you can enjoy the more natural experience.

Over the Easter weekend, we made our way to the mineral bath in St. Thomas which is reputed to possess healing powers.

Margaret Morris notes in her book, Tour Jamaica, that the waters gained their fame from curing the ulcer on the leg of a runaway slave. Or was it a leper? The historians are not sure, but in the last 400 years Jamaicans and visitors have flocked to the waters for the sheer relaxing effect of its hot and cold waters or in search of cures to numerous ailments.

In 1699, the government of Jamaica appointed a board to oversee the administration of the bath for the treatment of the 'sick and the infirm', notes Margaret Morris, and accommodation was built near the springs and 30 slaves were purchased to maintain the road and cultivate vegetable of the users.

The accommodation included baths into which the hot water was poured, as it is today, but there was also a resident doctor who was required to treat the poor for free.

The massage

Well, on our recent visit, we opted for the natural soaking and climbed like goats up the riverside track which is a steep vertical climb followed by a sharp descent into the river and spring.

The river water is cold, but in one particular spot, where the rocks are black with moss, it emerges from riverside fissures as hot as water in a kettle.

Along the way, we had acquired two 'attendants' who - when we reached the river - seated us on rocks mid-river and advised us to remove our rubber-soled slippers and soak our feet fully in the cold water.

By the time our toes were free, a large bath-size towel is soaked in the piping hot water and slapped over our shoulders and backs.

Water poured over our heads left us gasping and we were saturated with repeated soakings and the massage - manipulation of arms, feet and shoulders began.

After the first phase, done while seated, we are invited to ascend a ledge at the side of the river where the hot mineral water pools and where a set of black rocks is the massage table.

Clients lie on their backs, and the towel - dipped repeatedly into the hot water - is placed over the extremities which are then pummeled in mild karate style. Arms and legs are manipulated as if the client is an accident victim recovering from trauma.

Enjoying the hot and cold waters

All of this is occurring while the client is being ogled surreptitiously by others who are enjoying the hot and cold waters without benefit of the 'massage.'

Everything is done in steps of threes, including the final blessing, which comprises pouring more hot mineral water over your head while wishing you health and prosperity.

We appreciate the service, but our advice is to make sure to settle on the cost before you go, otherwise you might be hit with a scandalously high price. Do not accept assurances of affordability until the price is spelt out in dollars and cents.

On our way out, we stopped at Ras Cyril for an ital lunch of stewed red peas and susumber and curry-flavoured rice.

Seating is a wooden bench placed plump along the path to the river and fronted by a black board listing the complaints of the Psalmist David which Ras Cyril has adopted as his own.

Nearby is a table full of roots juice and fruits.We dine while dozens of would-be bathers wander through, on their way to the spring in hope of healing.

- Avia Collinder