Rosemary Parkinson, Gleaner writer
Left: Derry brings in the fresh fish. Right: King fish fresh from the fishermen at Great Bay. - CONTRIBUTED PHOTOS
Excerpt from the Visitor's Log.
"I have fallen in love with Jamaica through you?and I'm only three days into my first visit to the island!"
- Fiona Harris, Conde Nast Traveller, UK.
IN DIRE need of a place of sanctuary, I arrived late at Blue Marlin Villa in St. Elizabeth not really knowing what to expect. I have experienced firsthand what St. Elizabeth brings - peace, quiet, spiritual healing and I really had much need for this. But what totally took me by surprise having awakened the following morning renewed, is a story in itself.
First, it was the breathtaking view that brought tears to my eyes - Jamaica just never stops shocking. Then, that sea with its crystal clear waters; its small waves lapping softly on the dark sparkling beach beckoning to join in its glory.
For the first time in almost a year, I swam about like the young thing I'm not. Suddenly my feet touched a vaguely familiar feel. Before I knew what, I had several sand dollars in my hand, an animal that has so disappeared from other islands through 'progress.'
Coming to shore, sitting on the water's edge, messing about in the sand, brought another shock - 'chip-chip' (coquinas). I knew instantly why I felt so childlike - Great Bay reminded me of Mayaro Beach where my family vacationed when in Trinidad. I gathered just a couple of hands full of these delectable creatures, handed them over to Sally Parchment (Blue Marlin's in-house cook extraordinaire for the last 20 odd years) who steamed them lightly on my behalf. I then mixed ketchup, lime, garlic, scallion and a touch of pepper sauce and that was me - in heaven and feeling all of 12 years old.
Breakfast was a delight of saltfish and cabbage with the thinnest bammy I have ever seen.
"This is the way we make them here in St. Elizabeth, and it have to be so, 'cause those fat ones from Kingston suck up de milk and suck up your blood," I was informed. Sally is a veritable encyclopaedia when it comes to St. Bess matters. Later, during the preparation of lunch, she gave me this story:
"Every Friday, under the Cassia trees of Great Bay was market day for Treasure Beach because Mr. Ford had the first 'supermarket' in the area. He sold everything from thread, cloth, food, fish pot wire, kerosene, rope, everything you could get from him. He even had a 'rum bar' where de fisherman would get inna de waters after coming in from de cold sea. Mother Larmon would come down from Malvern with yam and vegetables; donkeys with hampers full of mangoes would come from Barbery Hall and Pond Side and a truck would arrive from St. Mary full-up with breadfruit and bananas. Auntie Black Eye sold her freshly baked hard cake and gizzada. Auntie Marta was known for fresh bun and ginger beer. Maas Ricketts always had snow cone. Black Puss was sure to bring in a good catch of fresh fish. Fishermen came in from Far Sea (Pedro Banks) and Near Sea in dug-out canoes under full sail.
Only the big fish was weighed. Small fish was sold by the string. Fishermen roasted the daily catch of wenchman, turbit and trunk fish right on the beach. We would always buy some, dip it in the ocean and eat right there. Nutting could ah taste so sweet. Those days were wonderful days, m'am - things a little different now but we are still happy and peaceful down here. True."
Sandy Tathan, one of the owners and the managerial part of this family property (there are two villas), is also a wealth of information. She gave some insight into the area.
