Students, holding posters of Cuban President Raul Castro and former President Fidel Castro, chant slogans during a march to mark the 48th anniversary of the triumph of Cuban forces during the 1961 Bay of Pigs invasion, in Havana, April 18. - File

IF EVER you want to paint the town red, there are more places to go out to in Havana than you can shake either a stick or a leg at. And Cuba's capital city could do with a coat of paint - so no trouble there.

One of the best is Las Canitas bar/disco at the Habana Libre Hotel. This is a fantastic high-rise hotel, modern in design (in a 1950s way) with a very high quality finish - though now a somewhat dog-eared. It has an immense lobby with a huge ceiling, dramatic polka-dotted sunroof over the spectacular fountain, marble floors in contrasting black and white and a floating staircase that takes you up to the easy-going club on the second floor.

The hotel was completed in 1958, just in time for Fidel Castro to claim it as his headquarters following the triumph of the revolution on January 1, 1959. Photos of Fidel and his dishevelled, army-booted rebels marching into the new, plush hotel and making themselves comfortable hang on the lobby wall. The end result of 'American modern' combined with 'communist revolution' brings a surreal 'George Jetson meets Fidel Castro' kind of feel to the place.

classy club

If you feel particularly prosperous and want to impress the pants off of your date (not literally, of course) go up to the Libre's roof top to the very swanky El Turquino. It's so classy that the bathrooms have toilet seats - a rarity in Havana. The club is too expensive for most, except for tourists with deep pockets - so don't expect to see many Cubans. But the floor show under the stars is fantastic, with a great band and beautiful models showing off Cuban couture. The view is amazing as (like the prices of the drinks) the club is sky-high.

Casa de Musica is famous and something like Quad I suppose, if you stretch your imagination a bit - except with live salsa music. There is a big dance floor and lots of tables and chairs on a platform where you can watch the show in comfort. OK - maybe it's nothing like Quad. Top bands like Los Van Van (think Cuba's answer to Byron Lee and the Dragonaires) often play here.

For an outdoor party with a Frenchmen's feel, travel to La Cecilia in exclusive Miramar - a really thumping place, especially if the very popular P.M.M. is playing. P.M.M. (pronounced pe -eme- eme) plays all over town bringing their music, dancers, models and even comedians. La Cecilia is packed with several hundred well-dressed-Cubans and (less well-dressed) tourists drinking and chatting, with a few dancing to the tunes of the video jockey.

The show's highlight is when brave male tourists from various nations are paired with beautiful Cubanas for some salsa dancing. Apart from the Cubanas, it's not a pretty site. But it is quite humorous, especially when the unsuspecting tourists - not necessarily the finest of specimens - are called upon to lift and twirl their partners above their heads, a la Dirty Dancing.

rather sad-looking

Alternatively, head to the top-rate Rojo Salon at the rather sad-looking Hotel Capri, close to the famous Hotel Nacional. P.M.M. was playing when we went - and admission was a hefty CUC$30, or about J$3,000. The place was packed mainly with fashionably dressed Cubans - which just goes to show that they are much wealthier than we think. Ice-cold Heinekens were going like hot bread, as were room-temperature bottles of Chivas Regal. Watch out for Cubans who fancy your chica, though - not to mention the occasional transvestite who may prefer you.

Everywhere you go people are dancing and you can spot the tourists a mile off, even those with experience in the salsa discipline. So go ahead and dance the night away - there are enough of your ilk for you to get away with it. And perhaps your Jamaican sense of rhythm will be enough to make you shine against those from more northern climes.