Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
Desperadoes had the crowd roaring. - Photo by Rosemary Parkinson
Trinidad Carnival is in the air. Known to be better than Rio, this is when party-goers flock to the island en masse to play mass! My trip to the island was specifically organised to coincide with the first Panorama competition. There was no lack of nightly parties before the Sunday when panmen from all over the country do their thing for thousands of fans.
As all our Caribbean islands, Trinidad appears to be under siege by those who feel it necessary to ruin islands that for years were peaceful. Thankfully, they cannot stop its people (or visitors) from enjoying it far more cautious, Trinidadians continue to be as warm, friendly, inviting and natural as the air they breathe. Trinidad remains a good destination for the discerning 'foodie-traveller' who can certainly find deliciousness everywhere.
Chef Robert Oliver (New Zealand/Fiji/Trini), his American friend, Julie (visiting for the third time), and I ventured into the heart of the capital city, jumping over watery holes and trying desperately not to fall into piles of mud, part and parcel of the enormous development going on - I mean skyscrapers á la New York. We were heading to The Breakfast Shed situated right on the water's edge of the port. First founded as one of the many soup kitchens that fed the working class in Port-of-Spain and its environs (so Robert informed me).
Excellent creole food
Shark and Bake was definitely the order of the day.
Today, people from all walks of life 'mash-up' some excellent creole food created by the ladies who man the stalls. We started with a delicious soursop juice made right to our instructions (i.e. not so much sugar cane juice and condensed milk as a good Trini would like it), and delved into Rebecca's amazingly delicious curried crab. With a plate of boiled dasheen, sweet and English potato, yam, green banana and plantain smothered in callaloo soup, I was in heaven. Now crab in Trinidad is land crab; callaloo is made from dasheen leaves, okra and coconut milk. These dishes are to Trinidad what ackee and saltfish is to Jamaica.
I stayed with Betty Davidson, a returned national, whom I've known since we were teenagers. Betty and I are ardent Scrabble® players. Drinking peppery Bloody Mary and vying to be 'Scrabble® Queen', we played 'til Sunday Panorama morning, with doubles (bake and curried chick peas) and succulent rotis as our alimentation of choice. Starting at 9:00 a.m. one must be a Panorama marathoner to arrive at the Savannah at that time. With cooler filled with all manner of drinkables, we got to the enclosed area (once the North Stand) about noon. A Carnival City 'not ready' in true island style, all manner of makeshift business ah gwaan - but who cares - Carnival is exactly about that! Finding our spot close to the stage was priority. Once that was achieved, the required scanning to see 'who dey', began. The Hezekiah sisters of Veni Mange Restaurant fame had a large group, all nyaming and drinking on comfortable outdoor chairs formed into a circle. Neysha Soodeen (MACO magazine) and her husband, Ian, The Angostura 1919 rum bunch, Sian Pampellonne (graphic designer from Barbados) and friends, Carlos Aqui (consultant printer) - were all among the huge crowd having a ball mingling. Hello? Even Lara was there. No, really. Would he miss Carnival? Never! Tents full ah people and T-shirts blazoned with all manner of hilarious sayings. Ladies in tight-tight gear, men showing off their muscled bodies. Groups of drummers and tire-rim beaters. The air thick with good vibes.
Trini food
Rebecca and her delicious curry crab at Breakfast Shed.
And then there were the vendors of Trini food. Copious amounts of corn soup. Shark and bake with all the trimmings - Chadon Benni (green wild coriander leaves crushed in lime, vinegar and seasonings), garlic sauce, tomatoes, cole slaw, pepper sauce (Trini peppers have heat and aroma like no other). Washed down with much beastly cold Carib Beer, the food was sweet.
At 10:00 p.m. under a full brilliant moon, Desperadoes came on stage. The crowd in the South Stand and on our side went crazy with a further crescendo when Phase II showed the world that they are simply the best - 100 men beating pan to the arrangement of genius Boogsie Sharpe. I was in tears. Pandemonium. By the way eff you see white people from abroad beating pan like pan was their own. What pride! What fabulousness! My night ended with another corn soup and the incredible sounds of Neal & Massy's All Stars at around 1:30 a.m. there were still several more bands that brought the crowd to frenzied enjoyment until almost dawn.
Rosemary Parkinson was last seen parading around de Savannah in costume 'though Carnival nah come yet!
Trinidad Carnival is in the air from the time one arrives at Piarco Airport.
