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Stabroek News

When heritage is a 'secret'
published: Sunday | January 13, 2008

Paul H. Williams, Sunday Gleaner Writer


The procession goes down to Old Town with the food to feed the ancestors. - photos by Paul Williams


Two women, one facing the camera, and the other with bushes around her neck, are in a no-nonsense mood, as they forcefully warn the visitors against entering Old Town.

'Yuh cyaan goh dung dey! Yuh caayn goh dung dey!' they shouted at the shocked visitors, who stood mouth agape in their tracks, and watched as the small procession of Maroons journeyed down the hill to feed their ancestors with unsalted meat, roasted food and white rum. The scene was the hillside overlooking 'Old Town', in the Maroon village of Accompong Town, St. Elizabeth, on Sunday, January 6.

It was the 270th anniversary of the signing of the peace treaty between Captain Cudjo, Maroon leader, and the British. The ritual of feeding the ancestors is an integral part of the annual celebrations. But, non-Maroons are not allowed to witness and participate in this particular activity, shrouded in mystique. First-time visitors to the festivities are not aware of this and are left puzzled when they are told not to join the procession to Old Town.

This year was no different, so when many eager visitors attempted to join the entourage they were barred by some Maroons, who were adamant that outsiders stay away from the site of the original Maroon settlement. A stand-off ensued, with a little shoving here, and a little pushing there. Some visitors were deter-mined to see what was to be communicated and shared between the past and the present.

But, when pressed for the reasons why non-Maroons should not enter Old Town, on January 6, no logical answers were given. Thi the need to know, and for as long as the procession was in Old Town, the stand-off continued.

ritual, revelry & reminiscences

One young man, dressed in full black, who claimed to be a Maroon by descent, demonstrated the indomitable spirit of his people. For, just when onlookers thought he had turned back, minutes after, he was seen dashing through the bushes below, at full speed. When the procession returned, he was in it, singing and chanting, his head adorned with a laureate made of vines.

Colonel Peddie, leader of the Accompong Maroons, while calmly defending the non-admittance of the visitors during the feast to the ancestors, is not in favour of them being roughed up. In explaining the situation, he said: "We do not want you to see how we communicate with our ancestors. It's a secret. Nothing more than that." Under advisement, he said, "We will make sure the message is put out before the next sixth of January, that visitors are not allowed down there on that day."

However, apart from the little stand-off, it was a day filled with ritual, revelry and reminiscences. The scent of delicious Jamaican food wafted through the cool mountain air, as the drums echoed across the Cockpit Country. When night came, the fun had just started. While the ancestors rested in their ancient graves, their descendants danced through the night, wallowing in their inalienable freedom.

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