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Stabroek News

White Skyy looking past limits
published: Friday | February 16, 2007

Alicia Roache, Entertainment Coordinator


Designers, Kirk (left) and Martin 'Smiley' Miller, for White Skyy designs, take the runway at the launch of FashionFace of the Caribbean and the 2007 Appleton Avant Garde designer of the year, held at Upon On The Roof, Knutsford Boulevard, New Kingston, on February 5. - Winston Sill/Freelance Photographer

There will be no witty references to the title of this collection.

The fact is, from what we've seen of White Skyy, there is no need. And after 15 years of designing and making show-stopping outfits for everyone from the pauper to the prince, (well 'King' really if we are to believe Beenie Man), who needs wit?

What you need is recognition.

Martin 'Smiley' Miller, who is the chief designer and to whom the 15-year reference applies, and his young brother, Kirk Miller, are hoping that their stint on the runways set up by Saint International will provide said recognition.

The White Skyy collection will make its debut on Sunday during the FashionFace of the Caribbean and Avant Garde Designer of the Year 2007 awards show on the East Lawns of Devon House.

For Smiley, it has been a long journey to those lawns, even though he grew up close enough to them on Maxfield Avenue and in Portmore, and has operated a store in the Constant spring Arcade for many years.

In another country, and in another industry where designing for celebrity equals celebrity, Miller would be renowned. But his creations, worn by artistes such as Beenie Man, Macka Diamond, Fanton Mojah and Natural Black, usually go unnoticed by the masses.

"Dem nuh gi wi di props," Smiley says. "Is just me know seh mi haffi tek it to the next level."

He does get props though. "The hairdresser dem, the nail technician, dem inspire mi. Dem see di fashion show dem and seh 'you stuff fi been deh pon dem show deh, so weh yuh deh pon?'" Smiley says.

Smiley began his journey to the 'show' as a tailor's aide, attaching buttons and sewing hems in Maxfield shortly after leaving school.

However, he soon learned enough to begin making outfits on his own. The tailor did not like that. "Six months after mi start sew a likkle pants and shirt and the tailor say, 'Yuh can't stay here no more'," he said.

From there Smiley worked with many different tailors, learning their craft and honing his skills. "Then in 1990 mi link wid the Ouch Crew and the design ting just open up inna mi head," he says.

The Ouch Crew, comprising models and dancers, was a very popular fixture in the dancehall during the '90s. Smiley used to design and make their costumes.

Close to dancehall culture


The 'gangster pimp'...and his pimpette

Today, the designers for White Skyy stay very close to the dancehall culture. They are a popular feature at events such as Hot Mondays and Weddy Weddy, and get regular shout-outs from Coppershot selectors for their one- of-a-kind creations.

"The whole music ting my ting surround," Smiley says. "There is where I get some of the meds."

He also gets some of the 'meds' (not of the pharmaceutical kind, mind you) from pop culture. The show stealing 'gangster pimp' outfit which signalled his arrival on the fashion scene at the launch of FashionFace was inspired by Al Capone.

"Gangster like to gamble," he says in explaining the significance of the aces and spades on the satin shirt. "The pin stripe have the gentleman look and the gangster look, the card pack, the felt, it show a pimp - but not just a pimp, a gangsta pimp," he says, "with his 'pimpstress' beside him."

It was enough for Saint boss, Deiwight Peters, to dub him "the new cultural phenomenon in fashion".

Smiley is equally optimistic of his place. "Mi nah brag or boast yuh nuh, but mi ago tek di show. A just our time to come out a shine," he said.

That might just be true.

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