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Stabroek News

Fashion stuck on the runway
published: Sunday | September 17, 2006

Krista Henry, Staff Reporter


Biggy's fashion hit the runway during this year's Caribbean Fashion Week, at the National Indoor Sports Centre, Independence Park, Arthur Wint Drive, on Sunday June 11. - Winston Sill/Freelance Photographer

Brand Jamaica has been sold worldwide, from the accent and music to dance and slang, almost everything it would seem, except fashion.

Jamaicans have a unique, eclectic and fun sense of fashion which captures the vibrant Jamaican psyche. Mark McDermoth, managing director of Uzuri International, says "Jamaican fashion is a lot about strong vibrant colours, a combination of textures and the interesting shape that contours figures found in the Caribbean".

Gary Codner, director of marketing/designer at Cooyah, sees their designs as arising from history. "Jamaican fashion uses colour, our history, where we are coming from. A lot of designers focus on African symbols, with there also being European couture," he said.

Earl 'Biggy' Turner says Jamaican fashion represents the attitude and energy of the people. "My clothes are an attitude type of fashion, something that is comfortable so that you be comfortable," he said.

However, many Jamaicans would be hard-pressed to name a few local designers. The industry is in need of financial support, as well as the support of Jamaicans. "We need more support from the private sector, banking especially. We also need a melding of designers, uniting to present a stronger force. We have to have a local alliance, come together here before we break through internationally. We have the quality and the product," McDermoth said.

Designer Barry Moncriefe laments that the fashion industry is too expensive, so it is very difficult to become a large manufacturer. "I doubt there's anyone doing that big on sales. It's expensive to manufacture. There's competition from China; they produce much cheaper. That's the problem I'm having. I depend on private customers, for small shops on the North Coast. I can't supply department stores," he's said. That doesn't mean that Moncriefe wants to sell to large department stores. He claims that he is content as a medium to small producer known for good quality. "Jamaican people love fashion; what we have put out is good work," he said.

Creative designs

Pulse CEO Kingsley Cooper says "the designers are creative but most are not business people. They are not built to produce in quantity. They put out great stuff, but have no funding". Biggy agrees that there is no real fashion industry, just what he describes as "a bunch of talented people doing out things individually".

The global market is still unconquered ground, but the designers have begun to make a mark. Barry Moncriefe says "I wouldn't say I've broken ground abroad, but we are being recognised. People called from London after Caribbean Fashionweek. I had some designs on runways in London and New York. Magazines in the Caribbean have approached me about my designs".

Uzuri International has consistently decked out the Miss Jamaica World and Miss Jamaica Universe queens in elegant dresses. "For many years we've done Miss World and Miss Universe, which is a great vehicle to advertise. We've been to Poland, China, United States, London, all over the world. We've also done fashion shows in the U.S. we have clients in Asia, Europe but the greatest clientele is in Jamaica," McDermoth said.

Cooyah has been on runways in New York, Los Angeles, Paris and more. There designs have also been featured in various music videos artistes such as Sean Paul to Junior Gong. As Codner states "we're most used in the Caribbean".

Biggy has done a lot of shows abroad, where his clothes have represented the entire Caribbean. He received numerous calls from Germany, England and Australia, from people wanting to do collaborations. Biggy says "we get some recognition due to fashion shows and the appearance of our artistes. Dem realise what a unique people we have and a unique fashion sense. People want to talk like us and look like us. We reach that crowd but not the buying crowd".

Fashion is ever changing and to keep up with the new trends designers have to be willing to move with the industry. "You have to flow and change with it, you haffi move. You have to create something to grab the people. Now we have a wait and see fashion," Biggy said.

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