Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
Lydia Francis from Eboney on Victoria Street, Granville, with some fantastic local lunch.
Grenada - isle of spice. How often has this country been described this way? More than I can even remember for sure. However, I was given the opportunity last week to look at this island in a different light - sans only the umbrella of aromas of spices exotic.
The flight compliments of Altitude In-flight Magazine and Caribbean Star Airline was nothing short of excellent. Whisked away on arrival to the tourist board's offices we met Mr. Edwin Frank who, bless his heart, had, under rather short notice, ensured an amazing roof over our heads and organised a mammoth amount of eateries to be taste-tested before departure some four days later.
Grenada, some 120 square miles of land in the south-eastern Caribbean just north of Trinidad and Venezuela and a stone's throw from Barbados, was just about totally devastated only one and half years ago by Hurricane Ivan. "Those-in-the-know" predicted a span of some 13 years before the earth would
re-nourish, regaining its position as the second largest exporter of
nutmeg in the world - a slightly less time span placed upon the ability of the island to become ready again for human existence. Wrong.
Replenishing 'downed' plush greenery
Not only has Mother Nature blessed this volcanic rock by replenishing most of the 'downed' plush greenery in record time, but with the help from the island's Caribbean partners, its many "nationals abroad, other concerned citizens of the world and mostly its own population; Grenada has risen from the depths of despair and is better than ever - a rebirth if you will. Nutmeg has reappeared and is flourishing in parts of the island - a new and hardier strain being planted will commence giving forth extra fruits in record time.
Commerce and infrastructure are on the up and up. Buildings have new colourful roofs and paint jobs. The hustle and bustle of life are evident, filled with a renewal and a humility I had personally found to be low on my last visit just months prior to Hurricane Ivan. Although some devastation is still evident, fast action has made our so-called gurus of knowledge look as bumbling as American President George Bush, Britain's Prime Minister Tony Blair and their microphones at that well-televised summit a week or so ago.
Grenada has come into its own as just Grenada - a precious gem to be reckoned with, its people and their resilience a lesson for the rest of the Caribbean.
Carnival comes up in August and calypso and revelry prevails from
now. Discussion as to who should be calypso, party, soca or whatever Monarch is high on the agenda. Nightly parties abound. Roger Augustine of the tourist board willingly devoted his carnival fever time to me and my camera, my demands for street food, pleas for oil dung, screaming for callaloo, shouts for halting on every dangerous corner for that perfect Kodak moment. Also, my almost 'terroristical' approach to being allowed to roam the market at will, and more importantly to accept silently my verbal scorn at his being unfit to find one single live crab to make his late grandmother's specialty crab backs for me. I often wondered whether he went home at night to bang his head against the wall, asking why he deserved me after Hurricane Ivan. Suffice it to say people, I am enamoured with Grenada.
The photos tell it all with tips of Grenada do's and don'ts.
Do stay at Maca Bana - review next week.
Do have dinner at Flamboyant restaurant - the owner Mr. Lambert is a most enjoyable and knowledgeable host. Commanding a romantic view of the sea, the food is good. Before ordering crab backs, however, please remind chef that crab backs are not made of breadcrumbs alone.
Do not eat at The Nutmeg on the Waterfront until they become restaurateurs. Positioned overlooking the delightful Careenage and its bay, this eatery is nothing short of a disgrace to Caribbean cuisine. My crab back was served as a lump on a square piece of sliced crust-removed white bread - the Queen of England might have found pleasure with this but I am not she. A tasteless chicken salad with canned peas and carrots did not amuse. The waitress from Mars needs to return 'home' or be trained as an earthling.
Do eat at Selma's in St. George's market for great local nosh like Saturday's blood pudding, souse, oil dong, stewed chicken and callaloo (dasheen leaves). Her motto is Smile As You're Eating. Check out the spices in the covered section of the market.
Do buy every single De La Grenade product - their Nutmeg Syrup and Liqueur are an absolute must.
Do visit, buy and eat The Grenada Chocolate Company's organic 71 per cent cocoa chocolate bar.
Do 'nyam' at Carol and Carlita's stand on the pasture by Wall Street in Grand Anse. Definitely wash this down with a freshly squeezed cane juice by Lennon across the road.
Do eat at Eboney's in the town of Granville - local food at its top best!
Do buy hand-made hats in the Grenville Market on a Friday and Saturday from Imelda Curwen.
Do have Sunday lunch at Aquarium on the beach below Maca Bana. If Mr. Williams is still celebrating his 17th wedding anniversary, have a dance with this prolific stepper.
Do enjoy the best massage ever from Belle at Maca Bana.
Do plan for the village of Gouyave's Friday Night fish fry.
Do dine at True Blue and ensure Manager Plato has a glass of red wine.
Do visit the Rivers Distillery. Their rum is lethal - not allowed on aircraft, by the way, for fear of molotov attacks.
Do visit Alie at Vine Yard in the mall on Melville Street for the best in hand-painted bottled local wines and rums - especially his "Last All Night" product!
Do all the above with Kennedy Jawahir of Kennedy Tours - (473) 449-5691.
Do not ask Roger Augustine (Tourist Board) for crab backs.
Heartfelt thanks to: The Grenada Tourist Board and Edwin Frank, Uli, Rebecca and Mikaela from Maca Bana and all the wonderful people who made my stay a lifetime memory.
Pack that bag and get yourself to Grenada now - there's so much more to enjoy!
Rosemary Parkinson was last seen heading for Barbados's Crop Over dressed as an invisible Crab Back. Happy Independence Jamaica!
Grenada Tourist Board: www.grenadagrenadines.com
e-mail: gbt@caribsurf.com
Tel: 473 - 440 - 2279
