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Stabroek News

Missed flight lands designer on Chicago runway
published: Sunday | April 16, 2006


- FILE
A model wears a design from Yola Grey's Flava Fashions collection at the Saint International 'Fashion Block', held on Knutsford Boulevard, New Kingston, in May last year.

Alicia Roache, Acting Entertainment Editor

IT IS not unlike any other trip to and from Chicago. The return flights are cancelled unexpectedly, the luggage has already been sent off and you have to find something to do with your time.

However, unlike many such situations, a business opportunity presents itself. It is an opportunity that many local designers like Yola Grey work for.

WILL HELP OTHERS

Grey, while on her way home to Jamaica, had exactly such an experience and ended up at Chicago Fashion Week, put on by the Apparel Industry Board Inc. of Chicago.

She was invited to submit a few pieces of her designs for the show as well as display in department stores Marshall Fields and Macy's in Chicago. It was a golden opportunity that may be open to other designers from Jamaica if Grey has her way.

Grey, as a consequence of her United States citizenship, joined the Apparel Industry Board and says she will try to use her contacts there to help other designers like Chris Pablo.

"When I look at his stuff, his stuff is on par with what can compete with other people," she says of Pablo.

Grey plans to take pieces of Pablos' collection, which they are now in the process of making, to show at Chicago Fashion Week in September.

Grey will also show her 'Flava Fashions', typified by bright, colourful and eccentric designs, as well as Pablos' edgy Caribbean style in a collection of white designs for men, also under the Flava brand.

NECESSARY FUNDING

However, like being tied to the proverbial rubber band, you can only go so far before being snapped back to the limitations of home.

One of these is getting the funding necessary to make the project work. Grey and Pablo say they approached JAMPRO, the agency responsible for supporting small creative industries, like fashion, and were turned down.

"We approached JAMPRO and to date they have failed us. We try and we come up with a plan and show them the plan and they say we are not qualified," Pablo said.

After presenting the 'whole layout', including a portfolio, how they intend to produce the items and the amount of money spent on the project, Pablo says the reason for the rejection remains a mystery.

"I didn't know what else we need to impress them. If they did really give us a help it would give us a string to carry through. We are just out in the cold now," he said.

However, although no representatives of JAMPRO were available for an official comment at press time, The Sunday Gleaner was told that the agency may not be directly responsible for the rejection of the proposal.

The programme, the European Union-funded Private Sector Development Program (PSDP), although facilitated by JAMPRO, is not under the organisation's control.

Despite the closure of one door, however, others remain wide open, but still offer no substantive support.

SKILLED HANDS

Going international is no small feat and local designers need skilled hands to make it happen.

"I want to do it in Jamaica, but I can't get anybody who can sew," Grey says.

Grey explained that of the many dressmakers that herself and Chris have approached to assemble the designs, there have been none yet who can produce the clean finish that is a must by international standards.

"We have the machines, everything, but its just the people to do it. Garmex has a roomful of machines as big as this house," she says, gesturing at her home, "but it's empty."

In lieu of the skilled workers Pablo is doing the "cutting, sewing, designing, everything", she says. This is inadequate to produce the quantities that will eventually be needed for the large department stores which have requested the designs.

Pablo points out, however, that Garmex Freezone is willing to find seamstresses for the project but further training will be necessary to get them to to the point where they can understand and replicate the designs

"I have some unusual designs that I am trying to put out. It is not something that anyone will be familiar with," Pablo says. "The designs are really technical. The normal stitchers won't be able to go out and do it. We are trying to train these stitchers to do the work."

Meanwhile, Grey is trying her best to make good on a promise to produce the items.

"What I want to do is get my foot in the door. I don't want to disappoint people where they place the orders and I don't produce," she said.collection.

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