A model presents a creation as part of Alviero Martini's spring/summer 2006 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week, on Monday. - REUTERS
MILAN, Italy (AP):
ON THE SURFACE the vibes were positive as the spring/summer 2006 womenswear preview showings got under way on the Milan catwalk Monday. Balmy weather and young feminine styles spoke of upbeat spirits. But behind the scenes dark clouds loomed on the Italian fashion horizon.
For a starter, Miuccia Prada was the only Italian designer to make it into Vogue America's group photo of the 'magnificent seven', designers the prestigious fashion magazine, headed by Anna Wintour, decreed to be those taking fashion into the future.
The other six were Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs, Olivier Theyskens for Rochas, Narciso Rodriguez, Alber Elbaz for Lanvin and Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga.
In an open letter sent to her colleagues, Mariuccia Mandelli, the name behind the Krizia label and one of the founders of the 'moda Milanese' which had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s, said she was "deeply indignant" that there were not more Italians on the list and announced she would not attend the dinner organised by Vogue during the current Milan fashion week.
Gianfranco Ferre, another designer who rose to fame in the 1980s, opted for a milder response.
"We need to find team spirit to give strength to Italian fashion," Ferre said.
UPSIDE DOWN
A rumour that the revered (and sometimes feared) Wintour would only attend three days of Milan showings turned the fashion calendar upside down, with organisers packing all the main shows into the middle of the week, thus leaving the weekend open for travel to Paris where the pret a porter shows open early next week.
On another stormy front, pictures recently published in a British tabloid showing top model Kate Moss allegedly sniffing cocaine, highlighted a wild side of fashion in contrast with the glamorous runway scene. The British fashion favourite was immediately dropped by some of the companies she modelled for, including Burberry, scheduled to show in Milan later this week.
In town for a benefit show, top model Linda Evangelista, all the rage in the 1980s, acknowledged "doing some silly things" in the past, but defended the fashion world.
"I don't believe the fashion scene is any more transgressive than others," the Canadian model said in an interview with the Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera.
SILENT STATEMENT
Giorgio Armani made a silent statement by parading 100 demurely made-up young girls down the catwalk for his Emporio collection, presented in his Emporio store in downtown Milan Monday.
His styles were as innocent as the faces of the unknown models. Pretty little jackets worn over tiered, pleated or ruffled skirts, lace-trimmed knee pants, and candy-coloured striped evening gowns combined to define the feminine thrust of the season.
Earlier Monday Dolce&Gabbana showed their second line D&G collection aimed at the younger set. The all-white collection of pretty petticoat skirts, demure milkmaid blouses and fetching see-through mini corset dresses tied together with feminine silk ribbons, underlined the current romantic mood of Italian fashion.
Even Roberto Cavalli, known for his slinky style, opted for the modern maiden, for his second line Just Cavalli collection also presented Monday. While tops were tight and sexy, and footwear towering platform sandals, the multicoloured ruffled skirts which appeared throughout the collection spoke of innocent fun at the country fair.
The Milan showings, which end Saturday, include 95 shows by Italy's top designers, and 150 presentations in showrooms throughout the city.
