- Photos by Rosemary Parkinson
The best roti in Montego Bay can be found at Miss Evelyn's. Here, Miss Evelyn poses with some of her sumptuous offerings.
Evelyn's Bar & Restaurant: Whitehouse (at the end of the airport runway, near Sandals, Montego Bay). Open Mon. through Sat.: 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Sun.: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Phone: 952-3280
Rosemary Parkinson, Freelance Writer
WHAT A way I have been in a serious 'love-Indian-food' mood this week -- and it has not remained unrequited, I can assure you. As a result I now simply reek of curry and could make some Indian gentleman in Central Trinidad a very happy (though somewhat older than normal) bride. Here's the story.
On discovering an array of Indian spices in a shop in Kingston (more about that soon) I purchased enough t'ings to start my own Indian community.
The aroma of cardamom and cumin dancing in my head all night, I went to Akbar the following day, stuffing myself with sufficient eastern delights to force me into a sari. Friday afternoon I left the bustling Mother's Day city of Kingston for the quiet of Falmouth, Trelawny, spices packed carefully in my travelling bag. Ahhh -- talk about relaxation.
The sea, invigorating air, and then Scrabble -- lots and lots of Scrabble. For those of you who don't know the game, it's all about words and scores and keeping the brain working under the heaviest of odds like the hammock, the bed, the couch, the beach, the hammock, the bed -- you get my drift?
On Mother's Day (the day we're supposed to be revered and spoiled in the West) I was barefoot, in the kitchen and, thanks to my Maker, not pregnant -- except with the hope that my sudden venture into realms far beyond my capabilities would at least be palatable. I was cooking up a storm -- an Indian food storm (the rainy day had nothing to do with me, promise). Well, I not only surprised myself but impressed one doubting friend -- Ms. Elaine Melbourne -- managing to delight her and her unsuspecting guests. They had assumed, by virtue of the fact that I write about food, that I must be a whiz in that area of the house -- an area, if the truth be known, that hardly ever sees me.
Pelau Rice, Dhal, Plantain in Cinnamon, Curry Mutton & Potato, Yoghurt Cucumber & Tomato in mint with several side dishes of purchased chutneys and another, very spicy and homemade by 'moi', were all a hit.
GOING TO SEE MISS EVELYN
Monday now, reeling with laryngitis (from shock of stove work), unable to return to Kingston, I went off to Montego Bay on a quest to find yet another eating place when Ms. Karlene Walters of Promotions Unlimited called. "What? Where yuh going?, she asked. "Nah, nah, stop right now. You know Whitehouse behind the airport by Sandals? Well go down there. Mi seh, go down there right now and tell Miss Evelyn me sen' yu. See mi? Anytime I have promotions in MoBay, I go to Miss Evelyn and everything goes fine on the day. I have never missed a beat with her for the last 10 years -- she reminds me of my Indian roots."
Well, that was it. That word (Indian) set my curry nerves off again and with the sounds of sitars and tambourines, visions of colourful dancing ladies with henna tattoos (silver bells on fingers and toes), villagers somewhere in deepest Calcutta grinding curry and peeling potatoes for a wedding, I heard my friend's parting words -- "di bes' roti in Jamaica." So that was it, I was heading once more towards a Tawa (a roti pan).
Miss Evelyn was not "born ah Bay" but she "follow line", according to 'historian' Miss Melbourne (my Falmouth friend) who giggled at her words -- the train lines having long since gone from these parts (shame, eh?). Miss Evelyn is from Townhead, Westmoreland. Coming to the Bay for a better life in 1965, she found employment in the hospitality industry, firing her childhood yearning for her own business. Every cent earned was saved towards this goal.
"Oh, my mother could cook, she really could cook, and I learned everything from her by just watching," said Miss Evelyn. Some 29 years after shi come ah Bay, dis lady owns land and house right on the beach close to the defunct BayRoc Hotel (now Sandals).
"My, oh my, we used to have business then, sometimes 50 to 60 people sitting at one time, four, five times a day until the all-inclusives take over and now is only Margaritaville that get their business, and a few tours, nutting else. Mi wonder if dey feel dey going take all dat money with dem when dead -- no more sharing like the old days."
DELIGHTFUL
Miss Evelyn's fare was glorious. Though 'flued' as a sacred Bombay cow with no moo. I ate more than planned. Started with a delightful fish tea, moved on to a steamed snapper (the likes of which I have not savoured anywhere else). Serious stuff. The Shrimp in Butter Sauce was exceptional -- succulent with that same 'je ne sais quoi' that Miss Evelyn just smiled about when constantly questioned. And then -- and then --- the Indian call-- Fried Roti, Dhal and Curry goat. That was it. From the first sumptuous taste all my strength was sapped away, all my determination of taste-testing only wafted away on the sea breeze. My voice even returned, albeit with an Indian tilt. Ranee Karlene Walters may go back to her Indian roots every time she visits Evelyn's but I, I am now a certified Indian. And if I did not look it before, I certainly do now -- curried to the bone I am.
"Peter Brooks, the famous American designer, has been eating my food for some 20 years. He stays at Half Moon, calls every day for his meals. I cook it, deliver and even serve him. Oh yes. A lot of MoBay lawyers come to me. I even look after the diets of diabetic customers by making sure my Steamed Fish is cooked with no oil or butter," announced Miss E in response to my remark about her personal relationship with the customers.
SPECIAL TASTE
The special taste of her curry? I was told with pride "I only use Better Pak but it's also about the special way I prepare everyting. I supply roti to a lot of Indian people in Montego Bay, you know. Anybody can order roti from me and curry too. I even do a potato roti -- if you're eating it here, it must be ordered before hand. Oh, yes, We are really famous for our curry and our roti. Children off de beach, some big men too order roti with curry gravy and a soda, just J$100 and dem belly full and happy."
So guess what? Oh, yes, better believe it. A roti and a cupful of curry gravy to take away was immediately ordered and gobbled up at Scrabble that very same evening!
Rosemary Parkinson was last seen wrapped in a Dhal Roti, curried to Delhi.
When you see that Superiority is an illusion, you will know that inferiority is an illusion as well. Then you will feel the wonder and power of equality with each other, and with God.
-Communion With God, Neale Donald Walsch
FOOTNOTE: Congratulations to the Perkins duo on their new StarApple location on Hope Road. I had written about my disastrous visit to their Island Life Shopping Centre flagship but as quick as a wink an explanation with profuse apologies from management came forward.
Had the staff of this cute little joint merely uttered a "Sorry we are closed", their employers (who have given up a lot to follow their dream) would have been saved the embarrassment of my candid pen. Do support this newly opened 'watering hole' on Hope Road. I shall be popping in soon.
