By Enid Donaldson -Mignotte
Slaves would often fish to supplement their diet.
FROM AFRICA to the Americas, little has changed in the basic diet of black people over the centuries.
In his book, Goodbye to Uncle Tom, published by William Sloan Associates, J.C. Furnas who has thoroughly researched the movement of enslaved Africans to America, noted that many of our ancestors brought with them foods familiar to them -- collard greens, corn, sweet potato, okra and peanuts.
Furnas note slaves in the American South also supplemented their diet with rice, pork, and molasses. Some plantations in the states of Alabama and Georgia raised enough sugar cane to supply syrup to those enslaved. In other places sorghum came to serve
this purpose.
DIET FOR THOSE ENSLAVED
From Furnas' book:
An Alabama planter defined the proper weekly diet for his slaves as three and a half pounds of wholesome meat usually the intestines, stomach, feet, head and fat of the dressed pig; five pounds of meal for cornbread; molasses every Sunday; milk daily; butter occasionally and the privilege of raising chickens.
In Virginia, slave rations consisted of a 'peck' of meal, three pounds of bacon and a pint of molasses weekly.
In addition to his cash crop of cotton, one benevolent Georgia planter raised oats, hay, corn, peas, hogs, poultry, sheep, beef and tobacco for his slave hands.
The enslaved Africans also grew other vegetables (okra and corn, for example) and various kinds of greens in abundance of their own consumption. They also raised chickens, caught catfish and trapped small game like rabbits, coon, possum, much of which we still eat today.
Furnas noted that their health could have been much worse off, but for the fact that the food was fresh, wholesome and nutritious, with the exception of the pork and lard. In West Africa the people cooked (and still do) with palm oil.
Ironically, the diet of those enslaved was superior in flavour and nutrition to the white bread, beef, choice pork products, lard, and white sugar that the master used in abundance.
Here are some recipes from Kenya, Nigeria and Gambia.
Ugali (Kenyan Porridge)
2 cups maizemeal (cornmeal)
4 cups water
Salt and pepper to taste
METHOD
In a large saucepan boil water. Sprinkle maizemeal into boiling water, stirring. Cook porridge for 20 minutes until thick and smooth. Stir continuously to keep mixture from sticking or burning. Cover and leave on very low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Season to taste.
Serves 6.
Sukuma - Wiki (Kenyan
stew made from leftovers)
1 lb. greens kale,
spinach, collards
1/2 chopped onion
4 tomatoes chopped
2 cups leftover meat
1 green pepper
3 tbsps. oil
Salt and pepper to taste
METHOD
In a large skillet, fry onion until soft. Add tomatoes, leftover meat and green pepper. Cook over low heat 30 minutes. Season to taste and serve.
Serves 8.
Crunchy Matoke (Ghanaian Dessert)
8 Matoke (plantains or
green bananas)
1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup peanuts, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
METHOD
Steam matoke in a large saucepan until tender. Drain and roll in oil or butter. Roll each matoke in peanuts and season before baking on a braking tray at 350ºF (180 C) oven for 15 minutes.
Swahili Seafish (Soweto, South Africa)
1 whole fresh caught seafish
(about 4 lbs.)
2 tbsps. palm oil or butter
1 large garlic chopped
1 large onion chopped
1 tsp. tumeric
1 tsp. cumin
3 tomatoes chopped
1/2 tsp. saffron
3 cups coconut milk
METHOD
Cut fish into 6 equal portions. With oil or butter in fryer sauté fish, onions and garlic, add tomatoes and the spices to coat. Stir in the coconut milk and allow to simmer for 15 minutes. Serves 6.
Optional: Before serving, add 1 red hot piece of charcoal.
This enhances the taste of the sauce, but leaves behind pieces of charcoal.
MORE RECIPES FROM AFRICA
Akokooji Soup (Ghana)
1 chicken
1 cup onions, chopped
3 tomatoes, cut in small pieces
2 tsps. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 1/2 cups chopped
fresh coconut
METHOD
Remove all bones from chicken and cut flesh into bite-sized pieces. Place chicken in a large pot with onions, tomatoes, salt & pepper. Cover with 4 cups of water, and boil gently for 15 minutes. Place coconut in blender with 1 cup warm water, and mix into a smooth liquid. Add coconut to chicken mixture, reduce heat, and simmer for 30 minutes.
Serves 4-5.
Joloff Rice (Nigeria)
1 chicken
1 large onion, sliced
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 can (15 oz.) tomato sauce
2 cups raw rice
2 tsps. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
3 tbsps. margarine
METHOD
Remove all bones from chicken and cut flesh into bite-sized pieces. Brown chicken and onion in oil in a dutch oven.
Pour 5 cups water over chicken, stir in tomato sauce, rice, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Boil gently for 5 minutes, then reduce heat, cover and simmer for 25 minutes, or until rice has absorbed all liquid. Just before serving, stir in the margarine.
Bito Coco (Upper Volta) (Serves 6)
1 small young turkey
5-6 lbs cut up
1/4 cup oil
1 tsp. grated parmesan cheese
1/2 cube yeast
1 tsp. nutmeg
1 bay leaf
3 tsps. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
4 cups green beans, cut
in 1 inch pieces
3 eggs
METHOD
Brown turkey pieces in oil. Place turkey in a large pot and cover it with five cups of water. Bring to a boil and add cheese, yeast, nutmeg, bay leaf, salt, pepper and green beans. Boil gently for 45 minutes, or until turkey is tender. Just before serving, beat the eggs and stir them into the sauce.
Serve over white rice.
HERE ARE A FEW
SAYINGS FROM AFRICA:
Ethiopia: One does not set too small portions for oneself
Nigeria: Whoever dines after dark eats flying things
Everyone knows that 'a bit' is too much for a hen's mouth
Enough food and good company make a feast
A big feast stops back biting
A meatless bone belongs
to the dog.
The person who wants to cut honey from a rock should not mind what happens to his blade.
Ghana: Hunger is felt by both slave and king
Mauretania: In order to cook, one needs meat.
Remember a popular saying You can't teach the hawk much about a chicken.
