Beet red: The crimson vegetable is popular at this time of year

Enid Donaldson-Mignotte

TO THE ancient Greeks, beet was a food fit for the gods (it was in fact the one vegetable considered worthy enough to offer to the god Apollo). The first best recipes came to us from Apicius, the first century Roman epicure whose cookbook is still sold today. The ancients, however, ate the greens and threw away the beet. It was left to the Russians and Germans to discover how delicious the roots were. Today we have learned to enjoy both the sweet crimson beet root and the crinkly, tart green tops.

BUYING BEETS

Buy beets that are about the same size so that they will cook evenly. Although you can cut them up and boil them, they "bleed" less when you bake them whole. Baking also gives them a far more intense flavour.

To cook the beets in the microwave, pierce them in several places and place in a microwave-safe dish with 1/4 cup (50 ml) water. Cover and microwave at high (100 per cent) for 10 to 14 minutes or until tender. Leave on roots and two inches of the tops to prevent loss of colour.

Cook until tender then scrub in cold water, taking care not to break the skin. Do not peel, slip off the skins, slice, chop or, if small, leave whole.

Season with butter salt and pepper. Young beets will cook in 40 to 60 minutes. Old beets may require two to four hours.

Young beets and tops make excellent greens which have a mild but distinctive flavour. If there are tiny beets at the end of the stalks, cook them with the greens.

TIP

When sorting the greens, discard coarse stems and blemished leaves, then wash by plunging up and down in cool water.

To perk up limp leaves, soak briefly in ice water.

Beet Salad

INGREDIENTS

2 lbs (1kg) beet
2 tbsps. (25 ml) lemon juice
1/4 (50 ml) cup chopped fresh
cilantro or parsley
1 tsp. honey
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/4 tsp. pepper
Salt to taste

METHOD

1. Trim beets but do not peel. Wrap in foil packages in single layer. Place beets of a similar size together. Bake in preheated 400ºF (200ºC) oven for an hour or until tender when pierced with a knife. Cool, peel, dice and place in a large bowl.

2. Whisk together lemon juice, cilantro or parsley, honey, cumin, pepper and salt.

3. Toss dressing with beets. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Serve at room
temperature.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

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