The naked truth - Industry flaws revealed, male models not getting share of the pie

FILE PHOTO
Champs models Damion Wallace and Matthew Anderson (back row), Steve Ming and Mark McDonald (centre) and Michael Anderson (front).

George Henry, Freelance Writer

MANY PERSONS who are not in the business of modelling (commercial and fashion), are of the view that those who take-up the career are earning big bucks and that this career is big business in Jamaica.

However, a few players who head modelling agencies locally tend to think differently.

Pulse Models' executive, Catherine Goodall, emphatically refuted that claim. She does not see male modelling in Jamaica as big business. She said that although more males are taking on the 'art' as a career, the remuneration is not attractive.

A model, she noted, could be paid up to $10,000 or over to appear on a fashion show. However, to earn such sums would be dependent on how 'big' or popular such a model is in the business.

Chief executive officer of Champs Modelling and Talents Agency, Debbie-Ann Stanley, said what models (both male and female) earn is not sufficient for them to survive.

"Models on a whole are still being treated like in the 1980s. People are still calling agencies wanting to offer the models $500 to do a show and yet they want them to be at rehearsals and all that. By the time they do all the running up and down, what they spend far exceeds the amount they receive," stated Stanley.

Male models at Champs are successful in acquiring work. Many of them have received contracts to appear in television commercials. However, according to the agency's CEO, the work they perform is insufficient in allowing them to earn a decent month's salary, but she claims that a good job for them would be in the offing on a bi-monthly basis.

Champs CEO was quick to point out that an average show would earn a male model in the region of $2,500, but close to that amount would have already been spent in preparation for the appearance.

"People want to use the models but yet the companies are not properly compensating them. The first thing you hear them say is, 'boy I am having a fashion show' and then want to say they have no money, which is always the opening sentence."

Miss Stanley claims that a shortage of work for models is due mainly to the downturn in the economy, which has forced persons to cut back on the number of fashion shows, reducing opportunities which would normally be available to the models.

The amount of money earned by males is also affected because many companies are using more females to promote their products. Miss Stanley pointed out, however, that that is changing as more males are now getting appearances for several companies.

Deiwight Peters, chief executive officer at Saints International, in sharing similar views to those expressed by both Goodall and Stanley, said the market is very limited not only for males but for females as well.

"There is limited opportunities for models locally and so we seek to prepare male models for the international market where opportunities are more readily available. That's where the money is. So we try to find who will compete effectively on the international market," said Peters.

Modelling for males in Jamaica cannot be compared with that which exists in the United States. Peters pointed out that the amount of money which can be picked up for an exclusive campaign in the USA can be quite substantial. He noted that there are male models who are earning US$3000-$5000 per day in that country. However, these models are those who may be in the industry for a while and have developed to a particular level.

"The kind of campaigns and opportunities that are available overseas with companies such as Gucci, Prada, Versace, Dolchi Gabana can give models pay packages of five figures or more, far exceeding what is being paid here in Jamaica."

Mr. Peters said that the opportunities for male models are far more limited, as the fashion industry is mainly a female one. This he attributes to the types of products that are offered and how the market is defined.

He pointed out that it is just now that male models are getting into the promotion of skin care and other products which make more opportunities available for them to enhance their career.

The CEO said now that the market has evolved, where designers are now offering a whole range of male products in skin care, shoes and others, the whole image of models has changed. However, according to him for a model to get a job, it will be dependent on how well he might be able to be accommodated in the budget for the image of the product - i.e. depending on how much the model is willing to work for.

"Models can earn up to say $50,000 for a top brand product for a campaign in both print and radio and possibly in some instances, although very rarely, it may go up to say a $100,000," said Peters.

The Saints CEO pointed out that he would not sell the image of any of his models internationally for less than $20,000 to $30,000. He claimed that his models should be paid some residual fees over time. He noted that some clients understand the dynamics of the business and will offer those amounts up-front, but others, he said, will offer a wholesale buy-out, then take the model's image to wherever they want to, while doing whatever they feel like doing with it for just a small fee.

All three agents made it clear as to what male models should look like if they are to make some sort of financial gains in the industry.

Pulse's Goodall pointed out that the days of male models looking very muscular are far gone. "They do not have to look like Tyson (international model Tyson Beckford) anymore. Height is important. You have some female models who are six feet tall and so the male has to be the same height or a bit taller and as long as the physique is well defined, then that should be O.K.," said Goodall.

Champs CEO Debbie-Ann Stanley noted that at her agency the male models should have a particular look as this is what clients like. She pointed out that Champs goes for the real masculine macho look, the well-toned body and not so much an overly handsome thing, but definitely a firm body. She believes that other agencies go for slim, fit looking males which, according to her, is the type of look which is sought after in the international market.

Deiwight Peters of Saints International insisted that male models have to pay much attention to how they present themselves. He pointed out that men are now spending time to get their manicures and pedicures as the 'ragga-ragga, raw-chaw' look will not work.

In the end all three agents agreed that male models earn more on the international market, due to the greater number of opportunities available. Opportunities, according to Peters and Goodall, in countries such as USA and Europe are great. But as for Goodall, the fact that people are more open to the idea of male modelling makes it even easier to access opportunities.

In the meantime, while Debbie Ann Stanley supports local male models going overseas to access opportunities, she suggested that they do their research and make themselves aware of what they are getting into. She claimed that a number of overseas companies give models a lot of 'pretty talk', making them believe that everything is 'rosy'.

According to the Champs Modelling and Talent Agency's head, it takes a model between two months and a year to acquire a modelling contract. She stated that during the waiting period it is important that they are properly taken care of.

Stanley also stated that she would rather encourage overseas agencies who require the services of local models to first visit the island so that questions can be asked of them.

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